“Robe de bure & cotte de mailles” – A loop between nature and heritage
This long distance trail, approximately 163 km long and taking 9 days to complete, is an exceptional route that combines wild nature, religious heritage, and feudal history. It takes you through the spectacular landscapes of the Allier Gorges, then the Livradois-Forez Regional Nature Park, among castles, abbeys, and medieval villages. Its name evokes the world of monks (monk's robe) and knights (chain mail): a beautiful metaphor for the heritage themes encountered along the way.
The stages
Stage 1: Langeac to Chanteuges, 19 km (approx. 4h45)
Stage 2: Chanteuges to Chavaniac-Lafayette, 15 km (approx. 3h45)
Stage 3: Chavaniac-Lafayette to Allègre, 21 km (approx. 5h15)
Stage 4: Allègre to La Chaise-Dieu, 21 km (approx. 5h15)
Stage 5: La Chaise-Dieu to Saint‑Didier‑sur‑Doulon, 18 km (approx. 4h30)
Stage 6: Saint‑Didier‑sur‑Doulon to Lavaudieu, 19 km (approx. 4h45)
Stage 7: Lavaudieu to Villeneuve‑d’Allier, 18 km (approx. 4h30)
Stage 8: Villeneuve‑d’Allier to Chilhac, 17 km (caapprox4h15)
Stage 9: Chilhac to Langeac, 15 km (approx. 3h45)
Not to be missed along the route
Right from the start, between Langeac and Chanteuges, the Allier Gorges reveal their spectacular character. The trail follows the meanders of this wild river, between basalt cliffs, riverside forests, and small hamlets clinging to the slopes. You will cross suspension bridges, walk along secret beaches, and enjoy breathtaking views of one of Europe's last wild rivers. This section is a treasurechest of biodiversity, where you may encounter beavers, red kites, or peregrine falcons.
Shortly afterwards, the priory of Chanteuges, founded in the 10th century by the Benedictines of Cluny, stands at the confluence of the Desges and Allier rivers. Its Romanesque abbey church, terraced gardens, and restored cloister offer a moment of peace and architectural beauty.
Continuing eastward, the route takes you to Chavaniac-Lafayette, home to the birthplace of the Marquis de Lafayette, an iconic figure of the Enlightenment and companion-in-arms of George Washington. This manor house now houses a living museum tracing the history of democracy and human rights, in an enchanting setting combining English-style parks, French gardens, and immersive exhibitions.
GR®470 - The Gorges of the Allier
A little further on, the village of Allègre is well worth a longer stop. Classified as a “Petite Cité de Caractère” (Small Town of Character), it preserves many reminders of its medieval past: remains of an ancient fortified castle, its cobbled streets lined with basalt houses, and superb panoramic views of the Livradois mountains. Here, history blends with the volcanic landscape.
Next comes La Chaise-Dieu, a spiritual center founded in the 11th century by Saint Robert of Turlande. Dominating a plateau at an altitude of nearly 1,000 meters, the imposing Gothic abbey church of Saint-Robert, rebuilt in the 14th century by Pope Clement VI, houses some real treasures: a Baroque organ, a striking 15th-century dance of death, fourteen 16th-century Flemish tapestries, and a remarkable Gothic cloister. The site has recently undergone extensive restoration and now offers a modern visitor experience, awarded three stars in the Michelin Green Guide. Every summer, the abbey church hosts the La Chaise-Dieu Music Festival, an international benchmark for sacred and classical music. An unmissable cultural and contemplative stop along the way.
After this powerful cultural stop, the trail dives into the Livradois-Forez forest, running alongside the Senouire River. This shady valley is home to little-known gems, such as the Château de Domeyrat, standing proudly above the woods, and the church of Lavaudieu, with its octagonal bell tower, partially destroyed during the Revolution, its Byzantine frescoes, and the former Benedictine monastery.
The final stages of this long distance trail once again follow the Allier River, passing through a series of listed villages and remarkable natural sites. In Villeneuve-d'Allier, Blassac, Lavoûte-Chilhac, and Chilhac, hikers cross ancient stone bridges, walk alongside basalt columns, and discover Romanesque churches and hilltop chapels. In Chilhac in particular, the paleontological museum and views of the volcanic flow make it a remarkable final stop before returning to Langeac.
The GR® de Pays “Robe de bure et cotte de maille” is best explored between April and October. May and June are particularly recommended. The flora is lush, the paths are lined with wildflowers, and visitor numbers remain moderate, offering a more peaceful and immersive experience.
The route is easily accessible thanks to Langeac train station, which is well served by regional trains from Clermont-Ferrand, Le Puy-en-Velay, and Lyon.
Enjoy hiking on the historic and wild trails of Haut Allier!